The way to France from Andorra: what to see near the border

What to see on the way to France from Andorra: key stops

From Grau Roig, the natural way out towards France is via Pas de la Casa. It is not a long stretch, but there is plenty to see if you are not in a hurry: a record-breaking pass, a lake shared by two countries, French mountain villages and a spa town with centuries of history. These are the stops worth knowing, from south to north. If you are staying at Hotel Grau Roig, listed in the MICHELIN Guide, all of them are within reach for a day trip.

Port d’Envalira

At 2,408 m, this is the highest paved road in the Pyrenees, linking Pas de la Casa with the rest of Andorra. It is worth driving up at least once for the views. If the weather is against you, there is the Envalira toll tunnel, opened in 2002, nearly 3 km long and at around 2,000 m above sea level.

Pas de la Casa

This is the gateway to Andorra from France. It belongs to the parish of Encamp, like Grau Roig, and stands at over 2,000 m. In winter it is part of Grandvalira, and at any time of year it serves as a shopping street. If you plan to take something home, check our guide to shopping in Andorra first.

L’Hospitalet-près-l’Andorre

Now in France, this is where the N22 begins, the road that climbs to Pas de la Casa and connects with the Envalira tunnel. It has a railway station, linked by bus to Pas de la Casa, which makes it a useful option if you are travelling without a car.

Must-see historic places near the Andorran border

The history of this border is best read on the other side, in the Ariège valley. First, though, it is worth clearing up a common mistake: some Andorran monuments cited as part of this route are not on it at all.

Ax-les-Thermes and the Bassin des Ladres

This is the main stop on the French side. Ax-les-Thermes stands at 720 m, about 35 km north-east of Andorra la Vella, where the Oriège, Ariège and Lauze rivers meet. The Romans already used its waters, and today it has around 60 sulphurous springs between 18 and 78 °C feeding three thermal spas.

The most curious sight is the Bassin des Ladres, or lepers’ pool: a public basin built in 1260 by Roger IV, Count of Foix, fed with water at around 77 °C. According to tradition, it was built to treat soldiers returning from the Crusades with leprosy. It is a registered historic monument.

The trail of the escape lines

This valley also played its part in the Second World War. Many escape routes towards Andorra started at Ussat-les-Bains, and the Dutch-Paris line passed through Foix. We tell the story in the freedom route in Andorra.

What lies in the other direction

The church of Santa Coloma is one of the oldest monuments in the country, pre-Romanesque in origin (8th to 9th centuries), with its current appearance and bell tower dating from a 12th-century remodelling. But it is in Andorra la Vella, in the opposite direction. The Sanctuary of Meritxell, in Canillo, about 20 km from Pas de la Casa, also lies towards the interior. If they interest you, give them another day with our guide to Romanesque churches.

Unique experiences on the route to France from Andorra

Beyond seeing villages from the car, a couple of outings justify the trip in their own right.

Bathing in thermal water

Ax-les-Thermes is the classic choice. At the Bassin des Ladres, every year on St John’s Day, locals bathe after daubing themselves with ash. If you would prefer a fuller circuit without leaving Andorra, there is Caldea, and at the hotel itself, the spa with its heated pool.

Skiing on both sides

In the snow season, which runs roughly from November to April, Grau Roig has the Grandvalira slopes right at hand. If you fancy a change of scene for a day, on the other side is Ax 3 Domaines, above Ax-les-Thermes, with around 75 km of runs according to figures published some years ago. Check the latest information on its website before you go.

Going by train

The railway line from Foix passes through Ax-les-Thermes and continues south through Mérens-les-Vals to L’Hospitalet-près-l’Andorre. For anyone travelling as far as Toulouse, it is an alternative to driving through the mountains.

Parks and nature on the way between Andorra and France

One correction is needed here: the Comapedrosa Natural Park, home to the country’s highest peak (2,942 m), is in La Massana, next to Pal Arinsal. It is not on the way to France. If you want to see it, that is a different trip, at the other end of Andorra. What you have on this route is just as good and much closer.

Pessons lakes

The route starts at El Cubil, in the Grau Roig ski area itself. The official figures are 5.95 km, 707 m of ascent and 3 to 6 hours, passing Estany Primer, Rodó, Meligar, les Fonts and Cap dels Pessons. You will find all the details in the Pessons lakes.

Estany de les Abelletes

This lake marks the natural border, with part of it in French territory, and can be reached from Pas de la Casa on a walk of about 3 km there and back. It is probably the simplest way to set foot on the border.

Bésines and Lanoux

To the north, in France, the Coll de Coma d’Anyell (2,470 m) links the Bésines valley with the Lanoux lake. The Porteille des Bésines can be reached via the Bésines refuge from the south, or from the north via Estagnas. These are high-mountain routes and should be planned with a map.

In winter

Avalanches sometimes close the N20 below the Col de Puymorens, so check the road conditions before setting off. With snow on the ground, snowshoes and snowmobiles are two more ways to enjoy the landscape without straying far from Grau Roig.

Food and culture on the journey to France from Andorra

Before you leave, at the hotel

Start or end the trip at the hotel. At La Marmita you have classic market and seasonal cuisine; at La Vaquería, traditional mountain food by the slopes; at La Fromagerie, fondues and raclettes. El Teatro del Vino is the most avant-garde option and focuses on pairing, with a cellar of more than 300 wines, cavas and champagnes. There are also Secret Room, the Copper Bar and the Summer Lounge.

Andorra, before crossing

If you have time, you can visit Andorra’s villages before heading north. And remember that crossing means going through customs, so check what you are allowed to take before loading the boot.

On the other side

Ax-les-Thermes has had a spa culture since the 19th century, and the St John’s bath is the area’s liveliest tradition. Foix, the historic capital of the counts who built the Bassin des Ladres, lies further north on the same railway line. Check times and opening hours before you go, as many services in the valley change with the season.