Royal Road of Andorra: walking the historic Camí Ral

History of the Royal Road in Andorra: origins and evolution

The Royal Road of Andorra, or Camí Ral, is not a single route but a network of old tracks that linked the villages of the valleys. Today you can walk several of its sections, and they offer a simple way to get to know the country at an unhurried pace. If you are staying at Hotel Grau Roig, which features in the MICHELIN Guide, this makes a good day trip: the waymarked sections are in Ordino, La Massana and Andorra la Vella, so you only need to set aside a day and cross the country.

A network of tracks, not one route

In its longest version, the Camí Ral starts in El Serrat, follows the riverbank south and passes through the parishes of Ordino, La Massana and Escaldes-Engordany before ending in Andorra la Vella. There are other branches with the same name, too. The Margineda bridge stood on the Royal Road between Sant Julià de Lòria and Andorra la Vella, via Santa Coloma, while the Pont de la Tosca in Escaldes-Engordany is a remnant of the old Royal Road of the Vall d’Orient, which led towards France.

Evolution: from muleteers to hikers

These tracks were used by the traginers, the muleteers who carried goods. Their mark lives on in place names: the bridge of Sant Antoni de la Grella is dedicated to Sant Antoni Abad, their patron saint. Another example of how the route has changed is the medieval Pont d’Ordino, which was moved stone by stone to Llorts in 1980 when the road was widened.

Today the waymarked sections are hiking routes, with wooden walkways and bridges in places. These are the ones you can consider:

• Camí Ral d’Ordino: Santa Bàrbara to Llorts, 6 km, easy.
• Camí Ral de La Massana: 6.1 km from the Prat del Molí car park to Sant Antoni de la Grella.
• Iron Route: La Cortinada to Llorts along the Camí Ral, an hour and a half.
• Extension to Sant Ermengol: about 30 minutes more from the chapel of Sant Antoni.

For more ideas along these lines, see our guide to hiking routes in Andorra.

Main attractions of the Royal Road: what to see along the way

The best thing about the Camí Ral is what you find as you walk. In Ordino and La Massana, the points of interest are very close to one another.

La Cortinada and Sant Martí

In La Cortinada you will find the Romanesque church of Sant Martí and, on Avinguda de Sant Martí, the Cal Pal Mill and Sawmill. The building dates from the late 16th or early 17th century and worked until the 1960s. It reopened in 1996 as an interpretation centre. Visits are guided, in July and August, and include a wood-cutting demonstration using an old hydraulic saw. If this appeals, there is more in the old mills of Andorra.

Ansalonga, Sornàs and Arans

The Ordino section passes through Sornàs and Ansalonga. In Arans you will find sculptures from the Men of Iron route, and along the way, a study centre for dry-stone construction.

Llorts and its mine

Llorts is a village of stone houses, wrought-iron balconies and a trough fountain, with the church of Sant Serni. The Llorts mine, open to visitors in summer, is the only intact mine in the country, with 30 metres of tunnels. It helps you understand the iron process all the way to the Farga Rossell, one of the most important forges of the 19th century, in La Massana.

Sant Antoni de la Grella

On the La Massana section, beside the river, you reach the Romanesque chapel of Sant Antoni de la Grella, with a drinking fountain, and the bridge of the same name: of medieval origin and rebuilt in the mid-20th century, it measures 21.20 metres long and 5.55 metres high at the arch. You can read about this one and others in our article on the historic bridges of Andorra.

Casa d’Areny-Plandolit

The Iron Route includes this house museum in Ordino. If you would like to go in, we tell you more in our article on Casa d’Areny-Plandolit.

Practical tips for walking the Royal Road in Andorra

These are straightforward routes, but they are worth organising a little, because setting out from Grau Roig means driving to Ordino or La Massana first.

When to go

The tourist office suggests walking the Camí Ral d’Ordino between May and October, weather and ground permitting. It is the best time of year: in summer, the Llorts mine and Cal Pal are open as well.

Where to park

In Ordino, park next to the climbing wall and sports centre, and from there you reach the start along the Camí de Santa Bàrbara. In La Massana, the place to look for is the Prat del Molí car park.

How to get back

The Ordino section is linear. If you would rather not walk back, you can catch a bus from the parish: check times with the Ordino Tourist Office on (+376) 878 173 or at ot@ordino.ad. The La Massana section returns the same way you came.

With children

The Ordino section is suitable for families, with wooden bridges and walkways. You can also start at a point partway along if the full 6 km is too far for younger children.

What to bring

Comfortable walking shoes, water and something warm, because the weather changes quickly in the mountains. On the La Massana section, the Sant Antoni fountain is a good place to refill your water bottle.

Recharging at the hotel

Back at Grau Roig, the spa has a heated pool, hot tub, sauna and Turkish bath, open from 10:00 to 21:00 and included for guests. In summer, the Summer Lounge adds loungers and an outdoor hot tub. For dinner, discover the hotel restaurants: La Vaquería, El Teatro del Vino, La Marmita or La Fromagerie, and the cellar of more than 300 labels.

The Royal Road route: map and detailed stages

The clearest way to plan the Camí Ral is section by section. These details come from Visit Andorra’s official route sheet, which includes a map of each route.

Section 1: Camí Ral d’Ordino

From the church of Santa Bàrbara, beside the Valira del Nord river, to Llorts. It is 6 km one way, with +100/-100 m of elevation change, in under 3 hours and graded easy. It passes through Sornàs, Ansalonga and La Cortinada.

Section 2: Iron Route

From La Cortinada to Llorts, along the Camí Ral itself, in an hour and a half. This themed route combines the history of iron with contemporary art. Highlights include the Llorts mine, the muleteers’ path and the Men of Iron route. You can do it with a guide: ask at the Ordino Tourist Office or the La Massana office (+376 835 693).

Section 3: Camí Ral de La Massana

This is 6.1 km following the river, through the Moles d’Anyós area, to Sant Antoni de la Grella. The route sheet describes it as easy and suitable for family walks. It returns the same way.

Section 4: on to Sant Ermengol

From the chapel of Sant Antoni you can continue to the Sant Ermengol plateau, where it joins the Camí Ral of Andorra la Vella. That adds about 30 minutes.

Experiences on Andorra’s Royal Road: making the most of it on your trip

The Camí Ral suits several kinds of trip. It depends on how much time you have and when you are travelling.

If you only have one day

The most convenient option is the Ordino section: set off from Santa Bàrbara, stop in La Cortinada and finish in Llorts. In July and August, try to fit in the guided visit to Cal Pal.

If you are travelling in summer

You can alternate the Camí Ral with the mountain activities the hotel lists, such as hiking, horse riding, 4×4 and quad routes, climbing or via ferrata, all of which you can ask about. There is also the picnic at 2,400 metres, with a 4×4 transfer.

If you are coming in winter

Grau Roig’s main season is the ski season, from November to April, and the Camí Ral is not the main attraction then: the tourist office itself places it between May and October. In winter you have the Grandvalira slopes and snow activities you can ask about, such as snowshoeing, mushing or snowmobiles. For a day off skiing, a visit to Casa d’Areny-Plandolit or to the museums of Ordino brings you close to the same history.

• For a casual dinner: fondues and raclettes at La Fromagerie.
• For a drink: the Copper Bar.
• To rest your legs: the spa, with sauna and Turkish bath.

If history interests you

Link the Camí Ral with other places of devotion and heritage, such as Canòlich Sanctuary, which Fiter i Rossell cited in 1745, together with Meritxell and Sant Antoni de la Grella, as the three main sanctuaries of the valleys. Sant Antoni de la Grella lies right on the La Massana section.