Visiting the natural thermal waters of Escaldes-Engordany

A guide to visiting the thermal waters of Escaldes-Engordany

Escaldes-Engordany owes its name and much of its history to the hot water that comes out of the mountain. There is no site called the “thermal springs” that you buy a ticket for: you enjoy the thermal water in specific places, chiefly Caldea and certain hotels in the parish, and you can see it at the Roc del Metge spring. This guide explains what is available and how to plan it.

If you are staying at Hotel Grau Roig, which appears in the MICHELIN Guide, bear in mind that Escaldes is half an hour away by car. The hotel has its own spa, with a sauna, Turkish bath, jacuzzi, pool and gym, but no thermal waters: for that you need to head down to the valley.

Where the water comes from

A large geological fault runs through Escaldes-Engordany, and thermal water rises through it. The best-known spring is Roc del Metge, named after a French doctor who owned the land. According to Visit Andorra, the water is sulphurous and sodic and emerges at 68-71°C, among the highest temperatures in Europe for a spring of this type.

A long history

The Gran Enciclopèdia Catalana records that the Romans already knew about the properties of these waters, and that the place name comes from the “fonts d’aigües calentes”, the hot springs. Those springs turned the town into a well-known spa. Today it forms a continuous urban area with Andorra la Vella, at an altitude of about 1,050 metres.

Benefits of the thermal waters

The waters of Escaldes have long been associated with rest and looking after the body. Visit Andorra links them to joint pain, rheumatism, circulatory problems and stress, but it is best to take this for what it is: a thermal tradition, not a guaranteed medical treatment.

What you can expect

• Relaxation: hot water, jets and contrasts in temperature help release tension, which is welcome after skiing or walking in the mountains.
• A sense of wellbeing for the skin: sulphurous waters have a particular texture and a characteristic smell, which you will notice near the spring.
• Switching off: a couple of hours of water and steam make a good break on a busy trip.

When to check first

If you have a cardiovascular condition, are pregnant or are undergoing treatment, consult your doctor before using saunas, hot baths or thermal circuits.

Where to bathe in thermal waters

These are the options genuinely available in Escaldes-Engordany.

Caldea

In 1987 the Comú of Escaldes-Engordany launched the project to make use of the thermal waters, and Caldea opened on 26 March 1994. It was designed by the French architect Jean-Michel Ruols, and its 80-metre glass tower is the tallest building in Andorra. In its first 25 years it welcomed more than 8 million visitors.

Inside you will find indoor and outdoor lagoons, hydromassage pools, a sauna, a hammam, a massage area and places to eat. For more detail, read our guide to Caldea.

Inúu and Likids

Inúu is the quietest part of the complex, for over-16s, with indoor and outdoor lagoons, waterfalls, swan-neck jets, a jacuzzi and treatment rooms. Likids is designed for children aged 3 to 8, with activities led by instructors. If you are travelling as a family, these two areas let you organise your time very differently.

Hotel Termes Carlemany

In the centre of Escaldes, Termes Carlemany takes water from the Roc del Metge spring and offers thermal water in its rooms, a spa, jacuzzi, Turkish bath and Vichy showers. According to Visit Andorra, it also has an outdoor thermal pool at 27°C. If you are not staying there, ask whether non-residents can use the facilities.

The Roc del Metge spring

This is not a place to bathe, but somewhere to see where it all begins. Visit Andorra says you can get close to the water and touch it, but be careful: it emerges at a very high temperature, so keep a close eye on children and approach it with caution.

How to get there from Grau Roig

From Grau Roig, take the CG-2 south and drive down through Encamp. Coming along this road you reach Escaldes-Engordany before Andorra la Vella, so there is no need to cross the capital. The drive to Caldea takes about half an hour in good weather.

In winter, check the state of the roads before setting off, and allow for heavier traffic at weekends. If you leave the car in the centre, much of what there is to see in Escaldes can be reached on foot.

Tips for your visit

Booking

At Caldea it is best to buy your ticket online in advance, especially at weekends, during the ski season and in August. Check prices and opening hours on its website, as they change with the season.

What to bring

A swimming costume and flip-flops are the basics. Before you go, check the centre’s rules on swimming caps, towels and lockers, as some items can be hired.

The best winter plan

Winter, from November to April, is Andorra’s high season. A good plan is to ski in the morning on the Grandvalira slopes and head down to Caldea in the afternoon, or save it for a day when the weather is not on your side. Bathing in an outdoor lagoon in the cold mountain air is one of the best parts of the visit.

What else to see in Escaldes

Make time to visit the Perfume Museum, the Escaldes-Engordany Art Centre or the church of Sant Miquel d’Engolasters. And if you want to keep relaxing when you get back, the hotel spa is a good way to round off the day. For dinner, Grau Roig has La Marmita, La Fromagerie and the hotel’s other restaurants.